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Galatoire's 2006-02-19T15:19:00-05:00 /galatoires/
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Taking the opportunity to gloat about being in Louisiana while I can: last night, my parents took me and my sister, who was visiting this weekend, to the new location of Galatoires (this one called Galatoires Bistro), here in Baton Rouge. We had the kind of meal that demonstrates conclusively why such an alarming percentage of Louisianians die of obesity-related diseases: its less that the meal was terribly fattening (which, of course, it was) than that it was so damned good. It almost certainly ranks in my top five meals of all time. (The number one such meal has been so enshrined for years, protected by the haze of fading memory, but it was all but impeccable: the Grill Room at the Windsor Court hotel in New Orleans, 1993. This is followed closely by dinners at Nola in 2001 and Commanders Palace in 2000. You may sense a theme here.)

Last nights dinner was just fabulous. The atmosphere is quite different from the original Galatoires, but I wasnt disappointed in it at all, given that I went with somewhat lowered expectations, having read a pretty mixed review. The dining room is slightly crowded, as it should be, but not unduly loud. We had two lovely Sonoma wines, a Matanzas Creek sauvignon blanc and a Rodney Strong pinot noir. And then there was the food. I started with really fine oysters Rockefeller. Their only downside was their intensity; I could have shared the appetizer with someone and been perfectly content. My sister and stepfather had the salad Godchaux, which was piled with marinated jumbo shrimp and lump crabmeat, and my mother had a small, nice house salad. Our entrees were also impeccable: my stepfathers duck was perfectly roasted and came with the best parsnips (yes, parsnips) Ive ever tasted; my sisters crab Sardou had two beautiful whole artichoke hearts topped with crab, nestled on top of creamed spinach and topped with just enough hollandaise to add a bit of a kick; my mothers trout meuniere was fabulous, and my stuffed eggplantstuffed with a crab and shrimp dressing, of coursewas absolutely perfect.

Dessert? Ill just say this: bread pudding topped with a bananas Foster sauce, and chocolate crème brulée.

Id say I may never eat again, but Ive already eaten the leftovers for lunch today.